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Old 03.17.2008, 07:31 PM   #24
m1rr0r dash
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: atari
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m1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's assesm1rr0r dash kicks all y'all's asses
for serious, though... i've recently been curious about pigment chemistry since i've been painting more.

for example "payne's gray" is a mix of amorphous carbon (lamp black - traditionally soot) and complex sodium alumino-silicate containing sulphur (aka french ultramarine) ... i realized i could get better result by buying the individual paints and mixing them on the canvas than with pre-mixed paints.

the same is true of "yellow ochre" - cheap versions of this color typically contain multiple iron oxides and are cut with titanium oxide. i never really thought it made much difference until i did a side be side comparison, but paints containing a single, more-highly refined iron oxide have noticably more vibrant color and are typically mixed into a cleaner, smoother linseed oil. and in the yellow to white range, where the yellow from the linseed oil starts to compete with the pigments, substituting a safflower oil (clearer but more expensive) can make a huge difference.


and if you want to talk photo-sensetive chemistry... silver print/c-type prints/tmax b&w/c-41 color process/ammonia based blueprints or sepiatone process/.... well yr gonna have to come back when i have more time.
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