24 november 1983
groningen

Visiting Smithson's Broken Circle/Spiral Hill

            The blood is coursing through me and I feel its rush. Three am flat in Holland night. We drove across the barren plein this afternoon, empty fields straight lines of trees, hogs and cows not raining but cloudy and w Dutch mist hanging lightly everywhere.

            We went to Emmen on the way to see Smithson's Broken Circle/Spiral Hill, on my insistence, everyone either half-hearted or against it. Not able to see the beauty of a wild goose chase through the flatlands.

            By the time we reached Emmen, night had fallen, but still we pressed onwards. Too late to turn back. We were told it was down a dirt road and "not to get our hopes up" because it was in a very deteriorated state. Drove the whole bumping length of the road in the just darkling night and came to the end w/o finding anything.

            Drove back along, slower. Found just a no parking sign, then I spot a rise of earth through the trees, which of course stands out a bit here in sea-level-land. We see there is a small break in the fence w signs saying No Trespass, and No Dogs and No Swimming; BUNCHA NOES. We figure this must be it.

            A break in the fence, a dirt path and yes, feeling our way through darkness, moon under cloud cover so there is little light, vision a haze which clouds the darkness, can see merely basic shapes, color contrasts. But it is Broken Circle/Spiral Hill. We ginger down the path to it, through underbrush which has grown, is growing, over it, reclaiming the place in a way RS would surely; have loved. The hill is now a rough mound, its clean lines long gone, shrubs growing on its sides, and grass, it was a large sad heap, not really sad but no longer w new shoes, shall we say.

            The circle was also fading, the water inlet still seemingly intact for the most part, the large central boulder still holding, claiming its ground. The jetty was completely submerged, back to the quarry-sea, like The Spiral Jetty. Wether it hovered inches below the surface we could not tell in the darkness.

            So we came and saw, or rather felt the deteriorating beauty, the end of everything, return, return, return, we speak of truths that deteriorate naturally over time. Worn out by the sun and moon, the tides. Time stands still we know, and yet time is all surrounding, a misty beaming stream in which we grope.

            The changes that come about are as if from thin air. We want, we love and hate, we gnash our teeth on stones, unwilling to yield. It's unclear if we can yield, destroy the surface tension of the sea. So we feel and are lifted. Armed and dropped, dragged under. Cool blue. Under cover. We believe. We reach. We grab and run.

            When we assume, we are lost, we know nothing really, and only a bit first hand, but we assume so much. Take anyone's word for anything. We like the sound of words, they befriend us and slop into our pockets only later to crawl up and out, slithering up into our throats to clamp down. The pleasure of death, "Why thank you". Have another cigarette and see death jump.

29 mar-apr 85
holland

on broken circle/spiral hill and robt smithson

Quiet
quiet now
don'tsayaword

                                    square
                                    supplants
                                    circle
                                    the will to logic
                                    the will to love

BROKEN CIRCLE, SPIRAL HILL

went to emmen today, way home from groningen in holland north, dragged them all down the same dirt road to see it again. it was so fast i barely remember it. the sky was clouded over, just after the rain, a nice pale blanket. the water was a lovely green as though mixed with white. such an odd color. the day clearing up (from rain) just before we arrived--i took it as a sign of something. anyway, i saw it. climbed through the gate which read (i think, in dutch) "keep out" --i don't know why-- climbed through and under the barbed wire into the adjacent cow pasture, for a better photo view. the circle has been greatly restored since last year, but it didnt look at all like photos i had seen of it-- which is cool, i can (can't) imagine what the last supper looked like to leonardo-- what we see is a grand permutation of an image. image becoming ikon. image becoming idea, nothing one really sees.

*   *   *

what else about the smithson piece? in the sleepy ville of emmen, which seems to maintain the piece in one breath, and to be unaware of its existence in the next. on our first visit in november 83 no one seemed to know of it at all. we ultimately discovered the location from a petrol station attendant. we had to drive down a very worn road, unpaved, to get there. it was dark by the time we finally found it, unmarked except for a dutch version of "no trespassing." we could barely make it out, certainly we couldn't see the shoreline, or the bare trees in the distance, or even the general shape of the surrounding quarry.

at that time, even in the darkling light it was apparent that the piece had fallen into a vast entropic well. the spiral hill was an undefined mass of overgrowth. as for the "circle," the land bridge was submerged and the canal had collapsed and filled in with earth. all that remained unchanged was the central boulder, and that, which smithson had disliked to begin with, has become the single most immutable facet of the piece. maybe that's the very reason he disliked it--its central focus and its resistance to erosion, to time. but i suppose at some point it too will shudder and tumble into the quarry lake.

this year in contrast the piece was restored, everything back to some approximation of the original relationship. like a folk song it is rebuilt w slight alterations, the spirit remaining more important that specific boundaries. we saw it in wonderful cool diffused light-- rich pale greens and blue-greys.

this piece reminds me of his PARTIALLY BURIED WOODSHED in many ways . . . . it seems closer to that piece somehow than to the mirage of SPIRAL JETTY, which existed in its perfect state and then was suddenly gone, as though a figment. like the artist himself the Jetty went from full flower into memory, no intermediate stages, no slow fade of the kind built into the WOODSHED piece, or that which has taken place with BC/SH.

i felt greatly privileged to see the piece. i had to drag the same carload of disgruntled folks that came there one and a half years ago--no-one could understand my need to return to see it again. perhaps the most important artist of the century, he himself might not have understood the need to see this "crystal out of time."

he lives on as a memory, his work carried forth mostly in terms of abstract thought or the museum pieces. how many who have seen and liked one of his "non-sites" have actually been spurred on to visit the original place? is this an important consideration? somehow even in the "flesh" the exhibited pieces seem abstractions, while a visit to BC/SH is something of another sort altogether. a spiritual reunion. a confirmation of things known and unknown.

on the way out in the car K. asked what was the intent of this piece; i didn't quite know how to answer this question simply. the answer is for me bound up in

everything i feel smithson was and stood for, strived for, plus my own vision of his vision on top of that. i felt that the visit to the site was so important, the main focus of my involvement with the piece right now. to replace the image from some catalogue repro with the experience of the real thing. that was my immediate goal. the cult of experience, unquestioning. reproductions, useful reference tools possibly, are an abhorrent substitute for the art itself. let's not reduce the spirit of art to one of cataloguing images for a slide show or yet another article.

i want to stand in front of the physical work and decide for myself. if painting loses that, it has lost everything. those who would rather read texts w repros that look at the real and decide for themselves have long ago missed the point. to see it in the real landscape of a backwoods abandoned dutch quarry, in emmen, merely a small dot on the map of holland, nowhere incarnate from the viewpt of 57th st., 2000+ miles away, in another universe. i could offer no verbal abstractions that held up in the light of simply being there, standing on that grassy hillside looking out and down at it. it became a "place" at last, no longer a notion. that was enough.

someone else in the car cynically remarked that they didnt see very much, and

jokingly or sarcastically queried where was smithson now, where did this get him? (admittedly it was my folly, my trip, i had dragged them all along). all i could think to answer as we jolted our way back up the wet and crusty road was that it had "gotten" him everything, and that he was right back there, behind us, passing through a rusty gate portal and out into the open landscape.